Copenhagen in December — A Winter Food-Lover's Day
A one-day, food-centric winter itinerary for lovers of Danish flavours: markets, classic smørrebrød, seasonal Christmas treats, a local tasting tour, and a cozy seafood dinner — paced for short daylight hours and cold weather.
Highlights
- Torvehallerne KBH: Danish pastries, smørrebrød stalls, seasonal stalls with æbleskiver & gløgg
- Guided tastings with Copenhagen Food Tours: local producers & insider stories
- Aamanns 1921: modern smørrebrød (must-try open-faced sandwiches)
- Tivoli Gardens Christmas Market: gløgg, æbleskiver & festive street food
- Kødbyens Fiskebar: fresh Nordic seafood in the Meatpacking District
- La Glace: historic Copenhagen patisserie for a classic Danish dessert
Itinerary
Day 1
A compact, winter-aware food tour of Copenhagen: indoor market tastings and a guided food experience in the morning, sit-down smørrebrød lunch, winter photo stop at Nyhavn, Tivoli's Christmas market for seasonal treats in the late afternoon, then a seafood dinner in Kødbyen and a classic patisserie finish.
Morning market breakfast at Torvehallerne KBH
Start warm inside Torvehallerne KBH, Copenhagen's beloved glass food market. Sample a flaky Danish pastry and try small bites from stall specialists (pickled herring, smoked salmon, warm æbleskiver if in season). Good place to orient yourself to Danish ingredients.
Tips from local experts:
- Winter tip: many stalls serve warm gløgg and æbleskiver in December — order a small portion to taste without filling up.
- Dietary note: look for vegetarian-friendly stalls like Grød (porridge & savory bowls) and stalls marking vegan options; ask vendors about butter/dairy if avoiding lactose.
- Practical: Torvehallerne gets busy around 11–13:00; go early (9:00–10:30) to avoid queues and get a warm indoor seat near the glass hall.
Guided tasting: Copenhagen Food Tours (market & local producers)
Join a local food-led walking tasting tour that visits producers, samplers and small kitchens — a great way to taste multiple Danish specialties with context and insider stories.
Tips from local experts:
- Book ahead: December tours fill quickly because of holiday visitors; reserve morning slots to combine with your market visit.
- Tell the guide your dietary restrictions in advance — guides routinely adapt tastings for vegetarians, pescatarians and common allergies.
- Cold-weather tip: tours include indoor tastings and short outdoor walks; dress in warm layers and bring waterproof shoes for cobbled streets.
Sit-down smørrebrød lunch at Aamanns 1921
A refined take on classic open-faced Danish sandwiches — order a few different smørrebrød to share and taste modern interpretations of traditional toppings.
Tips from local experts:
- Reservation recommended: Aamanns is popular for lunch; reserve to avoid waiting, or arrive just after noon for quicker seating.
- Must-tries: order a variety — smoked fish, roast beef and the seasonal special; they also offer excellent vegetarian smørrebrød.
- Portion strategy: smørrebrød are rich — order 2–3 varieties per person and pair with a small salad or side rather than a large main.
Nyhavn stroll & winter canal photos
A short, atmospheric walk in the old harbour: colourful houses make for iconic Copenhagen photos even in overcast December light. Warm up with a street-side hot chocolate if needed.
Tips from local experts:
- Best photo spots: stand on the small bridge toward the east end for the classic line of coloured façades; go when the light is soft (around 14:45–15:15 in December).
- Warm-up hack: if outdoor cafés are full, duck into a nearby café for hot chocolate or a warm spiced coffee — look for places advertising 'varm choklade' or 'gløgg' in season.
- Crowd note: Nyhavn is touristy; for a food-lover's twist, peek into side streets for local bakeries or small delis that often have less queueing.
Tivoli Gardens Christmas Market — seasonal street foods & hygge
Experience Copenhagen's festive lights, stalls selling gløgg, æbleskiver (Danish pancake balls), roasted chestnuts and local craft foods. Tivoli is atmospheric in December and a food highlight for the season.
Tips from local experts:
- Seasonal must-tries: go for warm gløgg (mulled wine), æbleskiver with jam and sprinkled sugar, and grilled sausages or winter fish bites from the market stalls.
- Timing tip: aim for late afternoon (16:00–18:00) so you see both daytime bustle and the gardens lit up — avoid peak dinner time to reduce queueing at food stalls.
- Accessibility & warmth: there are indoor eateries inside Tivoli if you need a sit-down to warm up — ask staff about quieter indoor seating to avoid long lines at outdoor stalls.
Dinner at Kødbyens Fiskebar (Meatpacking District)
Seasonal Nordic seafood in a relaxed-but-refined setting in Kødbyen — a great winter dinner spot for oysters, fish platters and warm sides.
Tips from local experts:
- Reservation advice: book an early table (18:30) to avoid weekend waits; if you can't reserve, ask the host for the best time window to drop in.
- Share plates: order a selection (oysters, small hot dishes, fish of the day) to taste a variety — they usually accommodate pescatarian preferences easily.
- Winter comfort: request a table indoors away from the entry to stay warmer — Meatpacking District can be breezy between venues in winter.
Late dessert & classic cakes at La Glace
Finish with a traditional Danish cake or slice from Konditori La Glace — an elegant, historic patisserie known for classic layer cakes and warm drinks.
Tips from local experts:
- Try a signature slice: La Glace is famous for its layered cakes — ask the staff for today's recommendation and pair it with a small hot chocolate or strong coffee.
- Queue note: La Glace can have a line in the evening; if there's a wait, use the time to stroll a nearby lit street (Gothersgade) and return — they keep names and call you.
- Dietary options: cakes are traditionally dairy-heavy; if you have lactose intolerance, ask if they can suggest a lighter coffee-and-pastry combo or smaller portions.
