Classic Lisbon day: Castle, Alfama, market lunch & Carcavelos beach

A relaxed, family-friendly one-day loop for a 22-year-old and dad visiting Lisbon in November. Mixes iconic historical sites (castle, cathedral), a lively but affordable market for lunch, a short train ride to a long sandy beach, plus easy evening riverside time. Pacing includes bathroom/snack breaks, stroller notes, and short transfers.
Highlights
- Views from Castelo de São Jorge over Lisbon and the Tagus
- Winding, historic Alfama streets and Miradouro de Santa Luzia
- Affordable, varied lunch at Time Out Market Lisboa
- Quick train ride to Praia de Carcavelos for sand and sea
- Evening riverside stroll at Praça do Comércio and a family-friendly dinner
Itinerary
Day 1
A compact, stroller-conscious loop: morning historic quarter, market lunch, afternoon beach, gentle evening by the river and dinner.
Castelo de São Jorge — morning visit with panoramic views
Start at Castelo de São Jorge to take in Lisbon’s skyline and the Tagus River. The castle has open grounds where kids can run briefly and several ramps; go early to avoid crowds and take advantage of cooler November weather.
Tips from local experts:
- Accessibility: Parts of the castle are cobbled and hilly — a lightweight stroller is best; there are ramps to the main viewpoints but some areas require a short carry.
- Facilities: Public restrooms are available near the entrance; arrive early (09:00) for shorter queues and to catch soft morning light for photos.
- Family note: Great for ages 3+ (toddlers enjoy the open ramparts). Bring layers — November mornings are cool and windy up on the walls.
Alfama walk & Miradouro de Santa Luzia — gentle stroll through Lisbon’s oldest quarter
Wander down through Alfama’s narrow lanes toward Miradouro de Santa Luzia — a photogenic viewpoint with azulejos (tiles) and benches. Keep the route short and stroller-friendly where possible; there are flat sections and places to rest.
Tips from local experts:
- Stroller hack: Some Alfama streets are steep/cobblestoned — pick routes with gentler slopes and use the main lookouts (Santa Luzia has bench seating and shade).
- Comfort: There are cafés with indoor seating nearby if anyone needs a snack or an indoor restroom stop — useful in November if it’s breezy.
- Kid-friendly: Suitable for ages 2+; let younger children explore the viewpoint railings while supervised. Avoid long explorations into very steep alleys if you have a stroller.
Lunch at Time Out Market Lisboa — affordable, varied options for fussy eaters
Head to the market for an affordable, high-quality selection of Portuguese and international dishes. Plenty of seating, indoor restrooms, and options that accommodate common allergies and picky eaters.
Tips from local experts:
- Family seating: Large communal tables make it easy to order different dishes; some stalls provide high chairs — ask staff when you arrive.
- Dietary needs: Many vendors clearly list ingredients; look for stalls that will customize portions for children or allergies (gluten/dairy requests are commonly handled).
- Pacing: November can be quieter midday but still popular — arrive around 12:00–12:15 to avoid the biggest queues and secure a table for a relaxed 60–75 minute lunch.
Transfer: Cais do Sodré + train to Carcavelos (short, frequent service)
Walk/short tram ride to Cais do Sodré station and take the Cascais line for a ~20–25 minute ride to Carcavelos. Trains are frequent and family-friendly; bring a foldable stroller for easier boarding.
Tips from local experts:
- Tickets & boarding: Buy a Viva Viagem card at the station machines; trains run every 20–30 minutes — pick a carriage near the middle for level boarding with strollers.
- Stroller note: You can keep a foldable stroller open in a carriage; if it’s full, collapse it temporarily and use the priority spaces for families.
- Timing: Allow 15–25 minutes for the transfer and ticket purchase; in November trains are less crowded than summer but still plan for a little queuing at Cais do Sodré.
Praia de Carcavelos — beach time and easy sand play
A long sandy beach with good space for kids to play, easy promenade access, and beachfront cafés. In November the water will be cool, so plan for sand play, a walk along the shore, or simply relaxing at a café rather than swimming.
Tips from local experts:
- Weather & clothing: November can be cool and windy — bring warm layers, windproof jackets, and a blanket for sitting on the sand; swimming is usually too cold for most families.
- Facilities: The beachfront promenade has public restrooms and family-friendly cafés with indoor seating (useful for warm-up breaks). Good for ages 1+ to play safely under supervision.
- Play & safety: The wide sandy area gives children room to run; keep to the lifeguarded sections if lingering near the water and avoid high surf days.
Transfer back to Lisbon (train from Carcavelos to Cais do Sodré)
Return on the Cascais line to Cais do Sodré—ample trains and easy boarding. Quick restroom and snack options at the station if needed.
Tips from local experts:
- Buffer time: Leave the beach by 16:15 to account for train boarding and any queue for tickets; keep snacks handy for kids on the train.
- Stroller & luggage: Boarding is easiest near the train doors; place prams in priority spaces and keep small bags close for quick exits.
- Evening note: Trains back to Lisbon may have commuters; choose an earlier carriage if you want more space with a child and stroller.
Riverside stroll at Praça do Comércio — evening river views and relaxed pace
A flat, stroller-friendly riverside square ideal for a post-train unwind and photos. Benches and covered walkways give shelter from November breezes.
Tips from local experts:
- Accessibility: Praça do Comércio is flat and fully stroller-friendly with wide promenades and public toilets nearby — good for all ages including seniors.
- Weather-smart: November evenings can be chilly; use the covered colonnades and nearby cafés if you need to warm up quickly.
- Quiet alternative: If the main square is busy, walk slightly east along the riverside for quieter spots and safer spaces for kids to move around.
Dinner at Nicolau Lisboa — family-friendly, affordable menu
Finish with a relaxed dinner at a family-friendly spot offering varied plates (salads, pastas, grilled options) and kids’ portions. The staff are used to families and can advise on allergen adjustments.
Tips from local experts:
- Family facilities: Nicolau offers high chairs and a flexible menu — good for ages 2+; staff are usually helpful with allergy requests (ask when ordering).
- Booking & timing: In November it’s easier to get a table, but reserve or arrive early (18:15) to avoid waits and keep the day on a gentle schedule for evening rest.
- Location note: The restaurant is in central Baixa/Chiado area — flat and easy to reach from Praça do Comércio with a short tram/taxi if you prefer to avoid walking with a tired child.







